Ornament is back. Seize the day:

Ruffles & Flourishes

By Robert Sharoff

For brides intent on a gown that's beaded, embroidered and bedecked to the nines, there's never been a better season.

Less is more or less is a bore? After several years when beads and lace seemed to be on the endangered list and dresses following trends in eveningwear and sportswear grew more hard-edged and minimal, bridal designers are once again embracing the kind of ruffles and flourishes brides have always found irresistible.

Crystal beads, pearls, delicate lace and embroidery, cathedral trains and veils in short, everything one instinctively associates with bridal dresses but which have been conspicuously absent in recent years are coming back. And designers couldn't be happier.

"If it's done the right way," says Reem Acra, "ornament can work magic. It gives a dress drama and meaning."

"Working with these beautiful embroideries and laces is so much fun," says Lazaro. "It's almost like creating a costume the most elaborate costume a woman will ever wear."

The concept of minimalism, which has dominated eveningwear and sportswear for the last decade, was always an awkward fit for bridal. Minimalism is primarily about looking cool and correct. Bridal dresses, however, are more exuberant and also more sentimental and romantic.

"The bridal gown is the gown of all gowns," says Justina McCaffrey. "It's a very important dress. Fashion in general is disposable. But bridal gowns are eternal. You're going to be looking at those pictures for a long time."

"Our inspiration is not drawn from eveningwear or sportswear," says Maggie Norris, designer of the Ulla-Maija line. "It's drawn from a fantasy of what a bride should look like."

Not that minimalism is totally going away. The plusses of minimalism the emphasis on line and superb quality are being retained. "You have to have good lines and proportions," says Anne Barge. "Even the best ornament can't save a dress that doesn't have those two qualities."

"So much is about fit, be it size 4 or size 24," says Victoria McMillan, who designs the Alvina Valenta line. "You can be in a completely plain dress and if it's cut right, you're gorgeous."

But ornament allows designers to do what they do best design a fairy tale dress for a fairy tale occasion. "It's the frosting on the cake," says Barge.

"My dresses all have something on them," says Acra. "There's always something going on. Ornament tells a story, makes a dress more important."

It also serves a basic practical function of emphasizing certain features and downplaying others. The bottom line? "You want to make sure you use every trick in the book to give a girl a big bustline and a small waist," says McCaffrey.

"You have to focus on the bride," says Norris. "We look for things that accentuate the waist like corsets or make the bustline look beautiful."

Embroidery, often in gold or silver thread, is ubiquitous, as is lace. Both, however, are being used more subtly than in the past. "Our embroidery is laid out almost like a painting," says Norris. "It's very much designed rather than an all over pattern."

"We do museum-quality embroideries using tiny, tiny beads and petit Pointe patterns with a historical feel," says Barge. "I love the contrast of retro embroidery on a modern dress. It's very distinctive and beautiful."

Lace also is being used more selectively. Lace used to be applied to a dress indiscriminately, shoveled on by the yard. Today, it's a delicate accent used at the waist or at the hem.

"Lace represents romanticism and a time when things were simpler," says McCaffrey. "It's very important right now. Everybody understands lace."

"I love lace," says McMillan. "It always looks delicate and feminine and your wedding day is one day when you want to look delicate and feminine."

Another holdover from minimalism that seems to be here to stay: "body conscious" dressing. "Body conscious" is industry lingo for sexy and translates to the overwhelming popularity of strapless and backless styles.

"Strapless is a very flattering look on many shapes and sizes," says Barge. "I think it's going to be around for a long time."

"Everything is strapless but that doesn't mean low or risqué," says McMillan. "There are limits and this is still a wedding."

The ideal solution, according to many designers, is a stole or a wrap that can be worn during the ceremony and then removed at the reception.

"You want to be appealing but not so forward and revealing that your grandmother or your aunts and uncles from the old country will be shocked," says McCaffrey

The issue of color continues to be explored. White, of course, remains the overwhelming favorite of most brides. "You can't avoid white," says McCaffrey. "White is the color of purity. Women wait to wear a white dress."

The fact is, though, that pure white what designers call "optic white" is not the most flattering of colors. Many designers opt for softer tones.

"Optic white is a hard color on anyone," says Norris. "But there are many shades of cream and ivory and even very pale pink that are very flattering."

Some designers go even further. "Brides used to be scared of color," says Lazaro. "But that's changing. I do what I call a "sherbet dress" in pink silk organza with green and yellow embroidery that's been very popular."

Bridal dresses remain one of the few fashion categories that rely on custom detailing and fitting. Two fittings are the norm.

For that reason, they generally need to be ordered at least six months in advance. In a pinch, many designers say they can create an acceptable gown in as little as two months. But why tempt fate? Order early.

Prices for most designer gowns range from about $2000 up to $7000. And, of course, there are off-the-rack styles that start as low as $500 or less.

In general, shop with your mother or your best friend. Do not bring the bridal party along. Ultimately, the dress should be what you sincerely want and too many voices and opinions will confuse you. Remember, it's your day.

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